Spider mites!

[Nanook]

spidermites - gotta kill em all hahaaha

[GMO]

outside aint far enough bro lol. Id drench all your house plants in that ph solution foliage and all bro. Batten the hatches and dig in bro. You might remember from my thread in another place that I welcome bad insects into my garden as part of my IPM nd diversity. Not the mites mate lol.

Aite. Guerilla planting it is tonight lol

Gonna spread my house plants far and wide lol

Ya think the ph down drench of everything is enough of a start?

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[Hobbit]

spidermites - gotta kill em all hahaaha

Yeah bro they fuked up are the mites. They not an insect so no insect killer works on em, different nerve system ya know. Most mite products are super acidic or super alkaline, but feked if i could get rid of em. Travel around on the wind as well mother fekers. You touch the infected plant one makes its way up your arm, you enter the tent and the little feker feels the breeze of the fan and lets go. Argghh im not bitter or anything lol

[GMO]

Evil lil s o b's

Kill it with fire!!

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[Hobbit]

Here is your cure mate, see if i can dig up some more info




Hypoaspis miles




Hypoaspis miles is a small (0.5 mm) light brown mite that lives in the top ½ in layer of soil. As a natural predator of fungus gnat pupae and of the snail parasite Riccardoella aspersa it is used by gardeners and snail breeders for biological pest control. Hypoaspis miles is also commonly used by reptile, amphibian and invertebrate keepers as a preventative or reactive measure against grain mites and reptile mites. Where most mite treatments are chemical based, Predatory mites are used as a natural method of preventing and curing mite infestations.

Hypoaspis miles and the similar species, H. aculiefer are soil-dwelling, predatory mites. Hypoaspis mites feed on fungus gnats, springtails, thrips pupae, and other small insects in the soil. The mite is 0.5 mm (1/50 inch) long and light-brown in color. It inhabits the top 1/2 inch layer of soil. Females lay eggs in the soil which hatch into nymphs in 1 to 2 days. Nymphs develop into adults in 5 to 6 days. The lifecycle takes approximately 7 to 11 days. Both nymphs and adults feed on soil-inhabiting pests, consuming up to 5 prey per day. They may survive by feeding on algae and/or plant debris when insects are unavailable. Both males and females are present, but males are smaller and rarely seen.

Hypoaspis is well adapted to moist conditions in greenhouses in a variety of growing media, but does not tolerate standing water. Hypoaspis is currently used in greenhouses for control of fungus gnats. It feeds on fungus gnat eggs and small larvae and is most effective when applied before fungus gnat populations become established or when populations are low. It has been successfully used in bedding plant production, potted plants, and poinsettia stock plants. Hypoaspsis will also attack thrips pupae in the soil, but cannot be relied on alone for thrips control in a commercial greenhouse. It may, however, enhance biological control when used in conjunction with predators feeding on thrips on the foliage. In small-scale experiments this mite reduced emergence of adult thrips to about 30% of that in controls.

The name of the strains used in biological control is changed from Hypoaspis miles to Stratiolaelaps scimitus.

This may not belong
Active during cool, moist period of year, autumn to spring, and produces drought resistance over-summering eggs in spring which remain dormant until following autumn. There is usually 3-4 generations per year. The over-summering eggs are laid on the underside of leaves or on the soil surface around the host. Dormancy of the eggs is broken by the combination of low temperatures and moisture. At least 6 consecutive cold days with mean temperatures below 20oC are required. The mites grow for 3 to 8 weeks before producing thin walled winter eggs and dying. These eggs have no dormancy and hatch almost immediately and pass through four nymphal stages, each on lasting 1-2 weeks depending on conditions. The first generation takes much longer to mature than the second. An apparent drop in infestation often is reported by farmers in July as the first generation dies and the second is hatching. By August, they have usually quite obvious again. Numbers peak in September to October. In spring thick walled, dormant, over-summering (diapause) eggs are produced. These are resistant to being dried out and survive in the soil until the following autumn. Activity ceases with formation of over-summering eggs. These eggs are often held within the bodies of the females when they die. They can withstand surface temperatures of 70oC. Summer rains with high temperatures kill many eggs.

[GMO]

Here is your cure mate, see if i can dig up some more info




Hypoaspis miles




Hypoaspis miles is a small (0.5 mm) light brown mite that lives in the top ½ in layer of soil. As a natural predator of fungus gnat pupae and of the snail parasite Riccardoella aspersa it is used by gardeners and snail breeders for biological pest control. Hypoaspis miles is also commonly used by reptile, amphibian and invertebrate keepers as a preventative or reactive measure against grain mites and reptile mites. Where most mite treatments are chemical based, Predatory mites are used as a natural method of preventing and curing mite infestations.

Hypoaspis miles and the similar species, H. aculiefer are soil-dwelling, predatory mites. Hypoaspis mites feed on fungus gnats, springtails, thrips pupae, and other small insects in the soil. The mite is 0.5 mm (1/50 inch) long and light-brown in color. It inhabits the top 1/2 inch layer of soil. Females lay eggs in the soil which hatch into nymphs in 1 to 2 days. Nymphs develop into adults in 5 to 6 days. The lifecycle takes approximately 7 to 11 days. Both nymphs and adults feed on soil-inhabiting pests, consuming up to 5 prey per day. They may survive by feeding on algae and/or plant debris when insects are unavailable. Both males and females are present, but males are smaller and rarely seen.

Hypoaspis is well adapted to moist conditions in greenhouses in a variety of growing media, but does not tolerate standing water. Hypoaspis is currently used in greenhouses for control of fungus gnats. It feeds on fungus gnat eggs and small larvae and is most effective when applied before fungus gnat populations become established or when populations are low. It has been successfully used in bedding plant production, potted plants, and poinsettia stock plants. Hypoaspsis will also attack thrips pupae in the soil, but cannot be relied on alone for thrips control in a commercial greenhouse. It may, however, enhance biological control when used in conjunction with predators feeding on thrips on the foliage. In small-scale experiments this mite reduced emergence of adult thrips to about 30% of that in controls.

The name of the strains used in biological control is changed from Hypoaspis miles to Stratiolaelaps scimitus.

This may not belong
Active during cool, moist period of year, autumn to spring, and produces drought resistance over-summering eggs in spring which remain dormant until following autumn. There is usually 3-4 generations per year. The over-summering eggs are laid on the underside of leaves or on the soil surface around the host. Dormancy of the eggs is broken by the combination of low temperatures and moisture. At least 6 consecutive cold days with mean temperatures below 20oC are required. The mites grow for 3 to 8 weeks before producing thin walled winter eggs and dying. These eggs have no dormancy and hatch almost immediately and pass through four nymphal stages, each on lasting 1-2 weeks depending on conditions. The first generation takes much longer to mature than the second. An apparent drop in infestation often is reported by farmers in July as the first generation dies and the second is hatching. By August, they have usually quite obvious again. Numbers peak in September to October. In spring thick walled, dormant, over-summering (diapause) eggs are produced. These are resistant to being dried out and survive in the soil until the following autumn. Activity ceases with formation of over-summering eggs. These eggs are often held within the bodies of the females when they die. They can withstand surface temperatures of 70oC. Summer rains with high temperatures kill many eggs.

These are predictor mites I should be looking into?

Working with Bnq verve they sound like a good idea anyways

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[Hobbit]

Here ya go mate not sure where i copied this from but I didnt find any of these suggested organic methods and more to be of any success, except the bennies but the rest is gold. I did read somewhere that 1 mite can damage up to 20 plant cells every minute. On my last infected plant I counted 50 on one leaf without a loupe hahah fekers were on steroids.






Spider mites are members of the Acari (mite) family Tetranychidae, which includes about 1,200 species. They generally live on the undersides of leaves of plants, where they may spin protective silk webs, and they can cause damage by puncturing the plant cells to feed.Spider mites are known to feed on several hundred species of plants.


Description

Spider mites are less than 1 mm (0.04 in) in size and vary in color. They lay small, spherical, initially transparent eggs and many species spin silk webbing to help protect the colony from predators; they get the "spider" part of their common name from this webbing.

Life cycle

Spider mites on a lemon plant
Hot, dry conditions are often associated with population build-up of spider mites. Under optimal conditions (approximately 80 °F or 27 °C), the two-spotted spider mite can hatch in as little as 3 days, and become sexually mature in as little as 5 days. One female can lay up to 20 eggs per day and can live for 2 to 4 weeks, laying hundreds of eggs. This accelerated reproductive rate allows spider mite populations to adapt quickly to resist pesticides, so chemical control methods can become somewhat ineffectual when the same pesticide is used over a prolonged period.

Spider mites, like hymenopterans and some scale insects, are arrhenotochous: females are diploid and males are haploid. When mated, females avoid the fecundation of some eggs to produce males. Fertilized eggs produce diploid females. Unmated, unfertilized females still lay eggs that originate exclusively haploid males.

Genera
The best known member of the group is Tetranychus urticae, which has a cosmopolitan distribution, and attacks a wide range of plants, including peppers, tomatoes, potatoes, beans, corn, cannabis, and strawberries. Other species which can be important pests of commercial plants include Panonychus ulmi (fruit tree red spider mite) and Panonychus citri (citrus red mite).

Many species of the spider mite (family: Tetranychidae), so common in North America, attack both indoor and outdoor plants. They can be especially destructive in greenhouses.

Spider mites are not true insects, but are classed as a type of arachnid, relatives of spiders, ticks and scorpions. Adults are reddish brown or pale in color, oval-shaped and very small (1/50 inch long) – about the size of the period at the end of this sentence. Immature stages resemble the adults except only smaller.

Mites live in colonies, mostly on the underside of leaves, and feed by piercing leaf tissue and sucking up the plant fluids. Feeding marks show up as light dots on the leaves. As feeding continues, the leaves turn yellow and may dry up and drop off.

Spider mites are most common in hot, dry conditions, especially where their natural enemies have been killed off by insecticide use. Some of the many species common in North America are predators of the plant-feeding mites, which make up the vast majority. They are also very prolific, which is why heavy infestations often build up unnoticed before plants begin to show damage.

Large populations are often accompanied by fine webbing. Host plants are many and include strawberries, melons, beans, tomatoes, eggplant, ornamental flowers, trees and most houseplants.

Life Cycle

Most mite species overwinter as eggs on the leaves and bark of host plants. In early spring, as temperatures warm, tiny six-legged larvae begin hatching and feed for a few days before seeking shelter where they molt into the first nymphal stage. Nymphs have eight-legs and pass through two more molts before becoming mature adults.

After mating, females continuously produce as many as 300 eggs over a couple of weeks. Hot, dry weather favors rapid development of these pests. During such conditions the time it takes to pass from egg to adult may occur in as little as 5 days. There are several overlapping generations per year.

Note: Spider mites are wind surfers. They disperse over wide areas riding their webbing on the breezes. Careful containment and disposal of infested plants is crucial.

Damage

Spider mites, almost too small to be seen, pass into our gardens without notice. No matter how few, each survives by sucking material from plant cells. Large infestations cause visible damage. Leaves first show patterns of tiny spots or stipplings. They may change color, curl and fall off. The mites activity is visible in the tight webs that are formed under leaves and along stems.

The University of California Agricultural and Natural Resources division’s Integrated Pest Management website says the following about the damage mites cause:

On annual vegetable crops — such as squash, melons and watermelons — loss of leaves can have a significant impact on yield and lead to sunburning.
On crops such as sugar peas and beans, where pods are attacked, spider mites can cause direct damage.
On ornamentals, mites are primarily an aesthetic concern, but they can kill plants if populations become very high on annual plants. Spider mites are also important pests of field-grown roses.
Control

Chemical pesticide use actually encourages the spread of spider mites by killing the beneficial insects that prey on them. Mites are also known to develop quick resistance to various pesticides. For these reasons, it’s important to control mites with effective natural and organic methods.

Prune leaves, stems and other infested parts of plants well past any webbing and discard in trash (and not in compost piles). Don’t be hesitant to pull entire plants to prevent the mites spreading to its neighbors.
Use the Bug Blaster to wash plants with a strong stream of water and reduce pest numbers.
Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs, lacewing and predatory mites are important natural enemies. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.
Nuke Em, a relatively new organic insecticide containing food-grade ingredients, works fast and kills most indoor gardening pests at the egg, larvae or adult stage. Best of all, it does this without leaving a residue on the leaves that can impact flavor.
If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived pesticide (Take Down Spray, Doktor Doom Foggers) to reduce infestations, then release predatory mites to maintain control.
Insecticidal soap, neem oil or botanical insecticides can be used to spot treat heavily infested areas.
On fruit trees, horticultural oil should be applied early in the season or late in the fall to destroy overwintering eggs.
Dust on leaves, branches and fruit encourages mites. A mid-season hosing (or two!) to remove dust from trees is a worthwhile preventative.
Water stress makes both trees and garden plants more susceptible to mite infestations. Make sure your plants are properly watered.
Tip: Management strategies must take into account the fast development time of this pest, especially during warm weather when eggs are laid continuously. Just targeting the adults will do little good if eggs and larvae survive. Repeat treatments are almost always necessary. The use of leaf shines and washes helps control and prevent further infestations.

[GMO]

Here ya go mate not sure where i copied this from but I didnt find any of these suggested organic methods and more to be of any succesl, but the rest is gold. I did read somewhere that 1 mite can damage up to 20 plant cells every minute. On my last infected plant I counted 50 on one leaf without a loupe hahah fekers were on steroids.






Spider mites are members of the Acari (mite) family Tetranychidae, which includes about 1,200 species. They generally live on the undersides of leaves of plants, where they may spin protective silk webs, and they can cause damage by puncturing the plant cells to feed.Spider mites are known to feed on several hundred species of plants.


Description

Spider mites are less than 1 mm (0.04 in) in size and vary in color. They lay small, spherical, initially transparent eggs and many species spin silk webbing to help protect the colony from predators; they get the "spider" part of their common name from this webbing.

Life cycle

Spider mites on a lemon plant
Hot, dry conditions are often associated with population build-up of spider mites. Under optimal conditions (approximately 80 °F or 27 °C), the two-spotted spider mite can hatch in as little as 3 days, and become sexually mature in as little as 5 days. One female can lay up to 20 eggs per day and can live for 2 to 4 weeks, laying hundreds of eggs. This accelerated reproductive rate allows spider mite populations to adapt quickly to resist pesticides, so chemical control methods can become somewhat ineffectual when the same pesticide is used over a prolonged period.

Spider mites, like hymenopterans and some scale insects, are arrhenotochous: females are diploid and males are haploid. When mated, females avoid the fecundation of some eggs to produce males. Fertilized eggs produce diploid females. Unmated, unfertilized females still lay eggs that originate exclusively haploid males.

Genera
The best known member of the group is Tetranychus urticae, which has a cosmopolitan distribution, and attacks a wide range of plants, including peppers, tomatoes, potatoes, beans, corn, cannabis, and strawberries. Other species which can be important pests of commercial plants include Panonychus ulmi (fruit tree red spider mite) and Panonychus citri (citrus red mite).

Many species of the spider mite (family: Tetranychidae), so common in North America, attack both indoor and outdoor plants. They can be especially destructive in greenhouses.

Spider mites are not true insects, but are classed as a type of arachnid, relatives of spiders, ticks and scorpions. Adults are reddish brown or pale in color, oval-shaped and very small (1/50 inch long) – about the size of the period at the end of this sentence. Immature stages resemble the adults except only smaller.

Mites live in colonies, mostly on the underside of leaves, and feed by piercing leaf tissue and sucking up the plant fluids. Feeding marks show up as light dots on the leaves. As feeding continues, the leaves turn yellow and may dry up and drop off.

Spider mites are most common in hot, dry conditions, especially where their natural enemies have been killed off by insecticide use. Some of the many species common in North America are predators of the plant-feeding mites, which make up the vast majority. They are also very prolific, which is why heavy infestations often build up unnoticed before plants begin to show damage.

Large populations are often accompanied by fine webbing. Host plants are many and include strawberries, melons, beans, tomatoes, eggplant, ornamental flowers, trees and most houseplants.

Life Cycle

Most mite species overwinter as eggs on the leaves and bark of host plants. In early spring, as temperatures warm, tiny six-legged larvae begin hatching and feed for a few days before seeking shelter where they molt into the first nymphal stage. Nymphs have eight-legs and pass through two more molts before becoming mature adults.

After mating, females continuously produce as many as 300 eggs over a couple of weeks. Hot, dry weather favors rapid development of these pests. During such conditions the time it takes to pass from egg to adult may occur in as little as 5 days. There are several overlapping generations per year.

Note: Spider mites are wind surfers. They disperse over wide areas riding their webbing on the breezes. Careful containment and disposal of infested plants is crucial.

Damage

Spider mites, almost too small to be seen, pass into our gardens without notice. No matter how few, each survives by sucking material from plant cells. Large infestations cause visible damage. Leaves first show patterns of tiny spots or stipplings. They may change color, curl and fall off. The mites activity is visible in the tight webs that are formed under leaves and along stems.

The University of California Agricultural and Natural Resources division’s Integrated Pest Management website says the following about the damage mites cause:

On annual vegetable crops — such as squash, melons and watermelons — loss of leaves can have a significant impact on yield and lead to sunburning.
On crops such as sugar peas and beans, where pods are attacked, spider mites can cause direct damage.
On ornamentals, mites are primarily an aesthetic concern, but they can kill plants if populations become very high on annual plants. Spider mites are also important pests of field-grown roses.
Control

Chemical pesticide use actually encourages the spread of spider mites by killing the beneficial insects that prey on them. Mites are also known to develop quick resistance to various pesticides. For these reasons, it’s important to control mites with effective natural and organic methods.

Prune leaves, stems and other infested parts of plants well past any webbing and discard in trash (and not in compost piles). Don’t be hesitant to pull entire plants to prevent the mites spreading to its neighbors.
Use the Bug Blaster to wash plants with a strong stream of water and reduce pest numbers.
Commercially available beneficial insects, such as ladybugs, lacewing and predatory mites are important natural enemies. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium.
Nuke Em, a relatively new organic insecticide containing food-grade ingredients, works fast and kills most indoor gardening pests at the egg, larvae or adult stage. Best of all, it does this without leaving a residue on the leaves that can impact flavor.
If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived pesticide (Take Down Spray, Doktor Doom Foggers) to reduce infestations, then release predatory mites to maintain control.
Insecticidal soap, neem oil or botanical insecticides can be used to spot treat heavily infested areas.
On fruit trees, horticultural oil should be applied early in the season or late in the fall to destroy overwintering eggs.
Dust on leaves, branches and fruit encourages mites. A mid-season hosing (or two!) to remove dust from trees is a worthwhile preventative.
Water stress makes both trees and garden plants more susceptible to mite infestations. Make sure your plants are properly watered.
Tip: Management strategies must take into account the fast development time of this pest, especially during warm weather when eggs are laid continuously. Just targeting the adults will do little good if eggs and larvae survive. Repeat treatments are almost always necessary. The use of leaf shines and washes helps control and prevent further infestations.

Your a hero. I think it's gonna be a long night lol

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[Hobbit]

Know your enemy bro. hope it helps i got more info but that should get you there.

[ohlordyeah_420]

Just caught up on this. Reads like a horror movie.