Looking for advice on Nutrient Schedule

[Minty]

Hey again Minty,

Looks great! Clean and crisp interface with easy navigation. Love it. I've only looked on mobile as I'm on the works computer atm as I'm working from home and that one is monitored :) there's a few small bugs like the righthand side is out of view on my browser and there's also some bleed from the header of the schedule into the cell. All probably related to some small CSS thingy no doubt. Like I said I don't do much frontend :) I did look at using vue for a project but never got around to it. I've tinkered with django too but anything I design looks like it's from 2008 :)

Didn't someone break node the other day with a dodgy commit to a widely used package? That's in the back of my head but I can't recall if it was node or not. Lot's of languages like GO and Rust have ran with this pull dependencies from git. It's a nice way to work but there's also a lot to go wrong if someone mess up :) I suppose you can use pinning but who preemptively uses pinning? Lol get me the latest and greatest right? :)

Thanks Grumpy, I appreciate the feedback and you taking the time.

I hadn't actually tried it on a mobile yet, planned on doing that as the last step once I am happy with the basics. I will take a look at the issues you report (I was aware of a bleed type issue within the totals of the nutrient schedules). My own usage would be to use the PC to set it all up and create the schedules then to move over to mobile for daily usage and control.

As for npm, yea I do try to use specific versions but you end up in a mad upgrade path due to the amount of inter dependencies these packages have on each other. Still, I guess it's better than having to hand roll every aspect of the software.

Thanks again buddy.

[Minty]

And beware of using RO water your ph will most likely jump around and srive you nuts, trust me, been there done that
My tap has a 0.3 EC background, so not too bad and it can buffer the ph better. I switched to it and haven't looked back

Got a cheap PH and EC meter from Amazon and measured my water:-

R.O.Water = 7.01 pH, TDS @ 0009 ppm
TAP Water = 7.90 pH, TDS @ 0440 ppm

If you're pure RO, first buffer the water with CaMg to around 150-200ppm, ...

Damn, I knew I read something about CalMag and the order of nutrients somewhere, at some point, but couldn't remember (before re-reading this thread) so asked GMO and he said go for last so I put it in after the Flora Trio.

• Starting with the R.O. Water = 7.1 pH, TDS @ 0009 ppm
• Mixed in the Flora Trio = 6.3 pH, TDS @ 0134 ppm
• Added the CalMag and HydroGuard = 6.1 pH, TDS @ 0210 ppm

... then run your micro slightly higher than the guide. RO has 0 trace elements in so you need to provide a little more. This is why we see more of the rare micro deficiencies like Zinc etc. Running the micro a smidge higher compensates for that. The trouble is you won't ever be able to fine tune your grow like the big commercial guys because we don't have things like tissue test analysis etc so we're always in the dark to a degree.

Can I adjust what I already have? My research states you should 'add the Flora Micro first' which is fine, but say you need to increase the dose? Micro can no longer be added first without starting again? Should I just go with what I have (only have 1 litre so far to manually feed the babies) and just make adjustments the next time? Like Captain said:-

a slightly underfed plant will out do a over fed 1 anyday.....remember this !!!

[Minty]

The Nutrient schedule I ended up going with is the one posted by Josh

https://www.growweedeasy.com/general-hy ... trio-guide

But converted into .ml / litres (with added Hydro Guard) :-

• Top Grid shows the total required nutrient dose (in this case .8) as I am starting 20% less than the original schedule and only mixing a single litres.
• Bottom grid shows the BASE nutrients levels for 1 litre of water.

How do you guys mix nutrients? For only a single litre I had to use micro scales and weigh in a scale of .001 grams to get a accurate dose in such small quantities. Literally pulling the feed out of the bottles with a 4ml syringe.

[seymore_budz]

And beware of using RO water your ph will most likely jump around and srive you nuts, trust me, been there done that
My tap has a 0.3 EC background, so not too bad and it can buffer the ph better. I switched to it and haven't looked back

Got a cheap PH and EC meter from Amazon and measured my water:-

R.O.Water = 7.01 pH, TDS @ 0009 ppm
TAP Water = 7.90 pH, TDS @ 0440 ppm

If you're pure RO, first buffer the water with CaMg to around 150-200ppm, ...

Damn, I knew I read something about CalMag and the order of nutrients somewhere, at some point, but couldn't remember (before re-reading this thread) so asked GMO and he said go for last so I put it in after the Flora Trio.

• Starting with the R.O. Water = 7.1 pH, TDS @ 0009 ppm
• Mixed in the Flora Trio = 6.3 pH, TDS @ 0134 ppm
• Added the CalMag and HydroGuard = 6.1 pH, TDS @ 0210 ppm

... then run your micro slightly higher than the guide. RO has 0 trace elements in so you need to provide a little more. This is why we see more of the rare micro deficiencies like Zinc etc. Running the micro a smidge higher compensates for that. The trouble is you won't ever be able to fine tune your grow like the big commercial guys because we don't have things like tissue test analysis etc so we're always in the dark to a degree.

Can I adjust what I already have? My research states you should 'add the Flora Micro first' which is fine, but say you need to increase the dose? Micro can no longer be added first without starting again? Should I just go with what I have (only have 1 litre so far to manually feed the babies) and just make adjustments the next time? Like Captain said:-

a slightly underfed plant will out do a over fed 1 anyday.....remember this !!!

Hey Minty,

So you're correct to say you should add micro first but you're not going to lock anything out by topping up with a bit of micro. I'll explain why. The micro contains all your micro, some secondary macros and complimentary macro nutrients. These are all more soluble in water than the elements in the grow and bloom so this protects agains nutrient lockout.

You can in fact run the tripart nutrient range on RO without the calmag. CalMag can be helpful using a two part nutrient as you don't have the control like you do with tripart. If you read their product guide, they state you can run with pure RO if you use the soft water variant of micro and run it slightly higher. It's up to the grower to calculate how much is requires but that wouldn't be too hard.

PS: when stating PPM in your threads, it's best to say what scale you're using as it's hard to tell what scale is being used with those cheap meters. Either that or use EC.

Here's a nice write-up from bluelab on PPM vs EC.

[Minty]

You can in fact run the tripart nutrient range on RO without the calmag. CalMag can be helpful using a two part nutrient as you don't have the control like you do with tripart. If you read their product guide, they state you can run with pure RO if you use the soft water variant of micro and run it slightly higher. It's up to the grower to calculate how much is requires but that wouldn't be too hard.

That is interesting and beyond what I have learnt so far, but trying to catch up. I am using the Soft Water variant, but to be honest have been having second thoughts about using the R.O. from what both you and Josh have already said. I literally have both mains water and R.O. on tap (no pun intended) directly next to my main water tank so it makes no difference which I use. Switching to tap water would mean I wasted some money on the R.O. filter but no big deal and I could dedicate that to the humidifier ;o)

PS: when stating PPM in your threads, it's best to say what scale you're using as it's hard to tell what scale is being used with those cheap meters. Either that or use EC.

Fair enough point, still researching this part as well and ironically enough I was looking to add a section to the web app to record local pH and TDS and was surprised to see there was a scale? I literally left myself a comment in the source code:-

Code: Select all

{
   "title": "Configuration",
   "padding": 10,
   "TODO"L"calibration types, default PH of water/RO, TTD convertion scales (500,640,700 ppm scales)  ",
   "rows": [

I will convert over to using E.C.

[seymore_budz]

You can in fact run the tripart nutrient range on RO without the calmag. CalMag can be helpful using a two part nutrient as you don't have the control like you do with tripart. If you read their product guide, they state you can run with pure RO if you use the soft water variant of micro and run it slightly higher. It's up to the grower to calculate how much is requires but that wouldn't be too hard.

That is interesting and beyond what I have learnt so far, but trying to catch up. I am using the Soft Water variant, but to be honest have been having second thoughts about using the R.O. from what both you and Josh have already said. I literally have both mains water and R.O. on tap (no pun intended) directly next to my main water tank so it makes no difference which I use. Switching to tap water would mean I wasted some money on the R.O. filter but no big deal and I could dedicate that to the humidifier ;o)

PS: when stating PPM in your threads, it's best to say what scale you're using as it's hard to tell what scale is being used with those cheap meters. Either that or use EC.

Fair enough point, still researching this part as well and ironically enough I was looking to add a section to the web app to record local pH and TDS and was surprised to see there was a scale? I literally left myself a comment in the source code:-

Code: Select all

{
   "title": "Configuration",
   "padding": 10,
   "TODO"L"calibration types, default PH of water/RO, TTD convertion scales (500,640,700 ppm scales)  ",
   "rows": [

I will convert over to using E.C.

Water quality is a bit of a crazy subject. RO provides a clean slate for you to build upon rather than rely on the minerals in your municipal water. RO blessings can also be a curse due to RO water being so pure, it's very reactive so adding nutrients will dramatically affect the PH. Generally speaking, once you have a balanced nutrient solution mixed, the PH will be neutral.

People have trouble using RO when using two pack liquid fertiliser because they were mostly designed for municipal water be that soft or hard. When formulated, the manufacturer would of taken into consideration the hardeness of the water and adjusted the formulation to suit. I only know of two brands of liquid fertilizers that have been formulated for RO. And that's Ferro and Advanced Nutrients. Tripack is in a different product all together though and gives you a lot more control over your resoviour. This is great for fine tuning for RO water but I suppose the one downside is they're also giving you a loaded gun so you can go and shoot yourself in the foot with.

But let's take a step back and consider things. You're not a medical supplier so don't need testing, I'm 99% sure your tap water is safe and the difference in the end product will be so minuscule and pretty much unnoticeable at worst, tap water makes sense for 99% of people. There are other pros and cons to both but that's for anothet discussion.

[Minty]

People have trouble using RO when using two pack liquid fertiliser because they were mostly designed for municipal water be that soft or hard. When formulated, the manufacturer would of taken into consideration the hardeness of the water and adjusted the formulation to suit. I only know of two brands of liquid fertilizers that have been formulated for RO. And that's Ferro and Advanced Nutrients.

The Flora Trio I use has the soft water version of the Micro at least, the others I don't think offer a soft water option so perhaps it depends on what is in that shit ;O)

[seymore_budz]

People have trouble using RO when using two pack liquid fertiliser because they were mostly designed for municipal water be that soft or hard. When formulated, the manufacturer would of taken into consideration the hardeness of the water and adjusted the formulation to suit. I only know of two brands of liquid fertilizers that have been formulated for RO. And that's Ferro and Advanced Nutrients.

The Flora Trio I use has the soft water version of the Micro at least, the others I don't think offer a soft water option so perhaps it depends on what is in that shit ;O)

GHE recommends you use their soft water micro when using RO at a slightly elevated level. If you do there isn't any need for camlag. I always forget about GHE :)

[Minty]

GHE recommends you use their soft water micro when using RO at a slightly elevated level. If you do there isn't any need for camlag. I always forget about GHE :)

Ah ok, I also use CalMag so guess I should continue as I am?

[seymore_budz]

GHE recommends you use their soft water micro when using RO at a slightly elevated level. If you do there isn't any need for camlag. I always forget about GHE :)

Ah ok, I also use CalMag so guess I should continue as I am?

If it ain't broken, don't fix it :) your initial issue was lack of water IMO. They look fine now buddy.